Thursday, March 5, 2009

Pindari Glacier- Himalayas Itenarary

Pindari Glacier, Uttaranchal, India


Schedule we followed (of trek)
Day 1: Song- Loharket : 3 kms
Day 2: Loharket - Dhakuri : 11 Kms
Dhakuri - Khati : 8 Kms
Day 3: Khati - Dwali : 11 kms
Dwali- Phurkia : 5 Kms
Day 4: Phurkia-Pindari : 7 kms
Pindari-Phurkia : 7 kms
Phurkia-Dwali : 5 kms
Day 5: Dwali-Khati : 11 kms
Khati-Dhakuri : 8 kms
Day 6: Dhakuri-Loharket : 11 kms
Loharket-Song : 3 kms
We could do only Song-Loharket on day one as we started late and also the terrain was tough for us to adjust. You can do more. But staying at loharket may help you in acclimatisation also.
Ensure that you stay at Dhakuri at least for one night. If possible try staying at Pindari, i guess it should be good. But arrange for your own food there since baba does not serve after 5.30 in the evening. Try to stay at these places as there are guest houses here. At Pindari if you wanna stay you are by yourself other than for the helps from baba.

Altitude at various points in meters
Song - 1400
Loharket - 1600
Dhakuri - 2680
Khati - 2210
Dwali - 2575
Phurkia - 3260
Pindari - 3353 (altitude at the lowest point)


Expenses- We must have spent around about 6000 INR together. Inclusive of our travel charges and all. Since we had tent we did not stay in guest houses on trek or hotels while on road( except for one night-that too in a low budget one). We tried to travel at night as much as possible so as to avoid hotel stays.

If you have good trekking stuff like a backpack, tent and all that should be the expense that you should also be looking at. We almost always paid for lunch only between 30-40 rupees and also we not more than 17 rupees for breakfast comprising of Magiee.

Dwali-Khati-Dhakuri

Dhakuri







Dhakuri-Loharket-Song


Some Maps that may help (I don't own any of these, if owner has any objection it will be taken off)

Pindari Glacier, Uttranchal

Loharket- Dhakuri
This is the toughest stretch in the whole trek . The locals say, if u make this distance. If you are not so sure about your hiking skils you can get a porter or a mule for just this distance. There are some awesome views and locales in this stretch.Dhkuri- khati
This is one of the easiset leg of the trek. Almost all the distance you are going down hill. It took us around 2 to 3 hours and we were not much tired. Keep some chocolates and sweets with you if you like kids as you are bound to meet a lot on the way and they are gonna ask you for them.
They wish you 'Namsate' ask for sweets and if they see your camera they will ask for a foto taken. Its upto you to oblige or not, no pressure.



Khati
This is the last village before pindari. Khati has its place in history for Pandavas (the heros of Hindu Epic 'Mahabharata' had stayed here on their way to heaven). The people are really nice, there is lot of open space for tents. You can get beautiful view of the snow capped mountains from here.

Khati - Dwali
This route passes through dense forest. Expect to see a lot of Monkeys and variety of birds. If you are lucky (or unlucky) you may see a lot of wild animals also. This is a long ardeous trek, don't try to do it very fast, it will seem never ending.
Dwali- Phurkia

This first 1 km of this trek is quite difficult almost a vertical climb. After that though you will still be going up it won't be that difficult. There is huge change in the flora and fauna. The temprate also fluctutated a lot when we trekked adding to the exitment.

Phurkia

This is said to be the highest point of the trek, at around 3600 mts height. Awesome place to spent a evening and night. The cold winds, mist and the waterfalls from the near by mountains make this a special stop in the trek.
Phurkia- Pindari

This is the final trek of 7 kms before you reach the destination point. Early morning trek makes this place even more beautiful, u will see huts of Nomads on the nearby hills and loads of horses.
Pindari Ground 0
Get to Pindari before 9 O clock in the morning or else it will be difficult to see the peaks as clouds cover them(this is aug-oct time, in summer u nead to reach earlier). Do meet the baba if he is there. Also if you have time stay a day here, next time I am suerly gonna do it.




Travel Itinerary

Monday, March 2, 2009

Pindari trip's last moments


Next day morning we took a bus to Nainital at 5.30 am. The conductor was nice to explain us all the peaks we saw and also we reached Nainital via Kausani. Actually we had to get down around 20 kms before Kausani and jeep. We checked into youth hostel for 60 bucks per head. Then we checked out the famous Nainital Zoo, especially the big owl and the Siberian tiger. Well, there was one more interesting thing,there was this guy a big fat one shouting and howling at all the animals. The Siberian Tiger which came so close to the rails of its cage walked back to its small pond at the back and sat down as if it was watching some comedy show live. Damn, it must have missed some good beer....lol. Then in the night we checked out the Tibetan market. I really loved the Tibetan people. They were so nice. Jana had some momos to eat. We met a Tibetan girl in a bag shop while checking out a bag that looked like our backpack. She was cute, polite and lovely. Well, we are two jackals and we are brothers !! lol. We loved her so much that we stopped on our way back to apologize for not buying anything from her...lol(that was Jana's Idea, but i loved it ;) ).

What I am talking about, read from first or read the last entry.
Nainital has Youth Hostel which is pretty cheap for tourist destinations, 40 Rs for members and 60 for non members. It was pretty clean compared to other government maintained institutions

I bought some honey for my dad and Jana some honey and ginger essence for home. Next day we just went around to a small park, came back to the hostel, picked our backpacks and left for Ramnagar via Kaldungi. Ramnagar is the last rail head for Jim Corbett National Park. We had reservations for the night train to Delhi.

We reached Old Delhi by 5.30 in the morning. Jana and i woke up. Jana has to shit everyday morning, first thing (hahaha). We though this was the train's last stop as we had checked the time table. Jana hit the bathroom while i kept an eye on the luggage. Surprise, the train started moving. One guy who was inside the train told us that it was going to Shajahanpur. The train stopped near the KrishnaGargh station for signal and we hopped out. We bought two local train tickets for Nizammuddin and waited for the 6.30 local. Unlike Mumbai where a local comes almost every 5 mins the 6.30 local was first and came 15 mins late. In Mumbai local stops only 30 secs in a station and here its stopped for almost 20 mins. We reached Nizamuddin at 8.00 and I bought my newspaper. After almost 6 days. I really cant live without newz. lol

Our Mangala express arrived, we boarded, made new friends and we started. At Gwalior some sports guys also boarded and we all had some fun. Especially enjoyed playing with the 5 year old Anamika, the little girl who was sitting in the opposite coupe. Everybody was enjoying playing with her. We had a good sleep that day night. Next Day morning We reached Kalyan Station(a suburb of Mumbai). Jana's holiday was over, I was to continue my journey to Kerala to meet my grandma and parents after almost 2 years. I met my relatives who had come to pick Jana and we bade farewell. 10 days were over and we didn't even notice it and so was my Jana's first and my first Himalayan trek. Pindari was still large in our minds and hearts.

I will be finishing my post on my Pindari trip with a photo gallery, suggestions, budget and itinerary post. Which may help you to plan a trip to Pindari

The travel pics

The trek ends




Reaching Dwali at around 4.30 in the evening, we were looking forward to some rest. We setup our tent near the rest house. Here were tried to bargain dinner with the keeper of the Tara Hotel, another Ayat Singh (this name seems to be pretty common here). He asked for a whooping 50 Rs per plate. Even at Phurkia we had paid only 30 bucks. I was not ready. Jana got onto the bargaining mode. We were now regular customers of Tara Hotel. This was our third time with them (once at Khati, Once Dwali and now). So i got angry that i told Jana not to bargain anymore. We had Puranpoli (a version of Chapati) with us. But later in night we found out that it had gone bad. We had to go hungry to bed that nite.

What is all this, read from the beginning or read the last post..

Dwali is a great location. Surrounded by Hills on three sides and dense forest on the fourth. We met two shepherds with their lot and 3 German sheperd dogs. One of the guys told me there are bears and leopards in the forest and they come out in the night for the sheep. But he reassured me not to worry as the dogs are good at chasing them away. We sat down counting stars with river's sound in the background. Clear sky and full moon made the night worth it.


Next Day morning we started at around 6.30 am for khati. We were both quite hungry. Spent a lot of time on Photography. We reached the tea shop on the small cliff at around 9.00 am. We had Magiee for breakfast and a cup of chai each. The trek wan uneventful except for us coming across a bone of some animal near the river and for loads of languors. By the time we reached khati, the sandals that i was wearing gave way and this time on Jana's preasure we skipped the short cut.. We found feviquick by God's grace and fixed it. We ddnt stop for lunch and started for Dhakuri. I thought the trek and view was almost over. But i was completely wrong.
Don't take the shortcut while trekking from khati to Dwali, but use it while coming back(opposite of what we did). U will save a lot of energy by this.

On our way from Khati to Dhakuri we stopped near a small waterfall and had a good bath. It was like 5 days since our last bath. We enjoyed every bit of it. I took the first dip and at afternoon 1 O clock the water was freezing. When i got up from a dip my brain literally ing and I lost balance for a second. Still took two more dips and it was Jana's turn. I started making fun of Jana as a monkey on tree top was watching him take bath. lol!!

We felt so fresh and trek continued. We reached Dhakuri by 4.30 and set our tent near the pwd rest house. The keeper was friend of Balwant and had already introduced us. We set the tent up and soon it started raining. We sat inside the tent for while and as rain stopped I came out wearing Jana's shoes. I went to the other side of the rest house and i felt as if i was struck by thunderbolt. There were these three groups of peeks. and dense forest and big hills separating each of them. I ran back to the tent shouting out to Jana to come out or die then and there. He too skipped out and we had great view. Three groups of peaks each with a glacier there and we are seeing all of them together. That day at Dhakuri there were 2 more Indian teams and 2 foreign teams team. We all enjoyed the view. And for the first time, i had a go at Jana. He started baby sitting me asking me to wear the glouse and I hate being pampered.


As it was getting dark the temperature too was dropping. It was the coldest night of our trek. From the icy mountains to our hill we had no protection. The winds that were blowing were blowing straight at us. It was the night next to full moon and it was raining with thunderbolts on the icy mountains. We just reveled in it. Had a quick chat in the night with the Australian girls(one of the foreigner teams) and their guide and hit the sack.



The next day early morning we settled our bill with Ayat Singh(yes this one was also Ayat singh) and started for Loharket. I was expecting us to get there by 11.30 thinking since the terrain while coming was difficult so it gonna be easy while going the other way. Jana could not remember much of this route as he was brain dead tired when we were trekking in the other direction. It was a tough trek, we had our pain and fun.

We reached Loharket, met Pyare lal (Balwant's brother), he gave us Jana's bag. He took a lock from it and said he wants it. I didn't know it was Jana's . I said ok and when we started coming down to Song Jana told me it was his. I got angry. This guy had asked us for a lot of stuff by now. Once we got to Song took two seats in a jeep to the stop from where we had to get a jeep to Bageshwar. We reached Bageshwar by 5.30. Here we got my shoes stitched and check out the local market. Later when we got to the bus stop we found out no bus leaves Bageshwar after 6.30 in the evening. So we took a room for 150 bucks. Shabbiest room even i have stayed in my life. The room was so shabby that we used our sleeping bags as blankets rather than the one they gave.

continued...